Free time runs through the morning into the early part of the afternoon. Later comes Uluwatu, a temple set right on the lip of a limestone headland. As the sun drops, actors and a chorus stage the Kecak, a piece that works on you slowly. From the amphitheatre the arena lies below you, 50 bare-chested men in black and white sarongs chanting 'cak cak' in strict rhythm. Dinner afterwards can be taken at any of the seafood places along the sand at Jimbaran.

A morning drive from the hotel up into the Batukaru highlands, where the Jatiluwih trek starts. It opens on a narrow footpath, and from it you look across what many consider the finest rice terraces in Bali. Lunch is at a restaurant nearby. Afterwards, Ulun Danu Beratan Temple appears to float on Beratan Lake; then Candi Kuning Market, stacked with fruit and vegetables in the old way; then the Git Git waterfall, and finally check-in at your hotel. Whatever is left of the afternoon is yours.

Bali at its most natural today. A boat brings you out among the Lovina dolphins early on, while the sun climbs over Lovina Beach. Later in the day comes a swim at Banjar Hot Springs, up in the northern hills, part relaxation and part sightseeing, and unlike anything else on the trip. Anyone who prefers to stay dry has the thick tropical gardens, the outlook from Komala Tirta Restaurant above, or the row of art shops outside the gate for souvenirs. Then Brahma Vihara Arama, the sizeable Buddhist monastery in the hills at Banjar. Brahmavihara-Arama covers a hectare of slope, with meditation rooms, libraries and fine gardens, and on its highest ground a scale replica of Borobudur, the largest Buddhist archaeological site in the world.

The day opens at Kintamani village, where Mount Batur volcano fills the whole view. Next is Tirta Empul Temple, known for its holy spring. Lunch, then the Tegallalang village rice terraces, endlessly photographed and worth every frame. The Ubud Monkey Forest sits in the middle of town, a small patch of woodland run as a conservation area.

A day about village life and the Balinese kitchen. It starts at the traditional market in Ubud, where you pick out your own herbs and spices, the fresh vegetables, and whichever meat or fish appeals to you. Your host then welcomes you in and guides you through cooking a set of genuine Balinese dishes with your own hands. The group gathers once more in the evening for a farewell dinner together.

Breakfast, then a transfer to the airport for the next leg. If you would rather stay on, ask us what is possible.