Land at Narita or Haneda Airport, where a shared transfer runs you to the hotel. The welcome briefing follows the next morning, on Day two. Your first two nights are at Shinjuku Washington Hotel Tokyu (or similar).

Today runs on foot and by subway. First stop is Meiji Jingu, the best known Shinto shrine in the city, entered beneath a torii gate standing 12 metres tall. Next comes the Imperial Palace and Nijubashi, a metal bridge dating from 1888. A train ride brings you to Asakusa, among the busiest quarters in Tokyo and a good address for street food, old izakaya and yakitori places. Over a 'chanko' lunch you learn how the sumo world works, sharing the table with wrestlers. Afterwards, pull on a sumo suit yourself and go up against a professional. There is time left in Asakusa before the hotel. (B,L)

A train carries you to Hakone, a region known for its mountains, its scenery and its hot springs. Ride the ropeway for a long look over Lake Ashi, with Mt Fuji visible when the weather cooperates. A pirate ship then takes you across the lake before you head to your lodging, a ryokan in the traditional Japanese style. Dinner is a generous Japanese spread, followed by a soak in the onsen on site and a night on a futon laid over tatami. Overnight at Susukinohara Ichinoyu (or similar). (B,D)

Another train leaves Hakone for Takayama, an old town whose historic quarter has survived largely intact and still feels of its period. Lunch on the way is a bento box. In town, Takayama Jinya, once a seat of government, opens a window on the country's past. Walk Kami Sannomachi Street, lined with wooden houses kept in beautiful condition, then see the ornate festival floats displayed at the Takayama Matsuri Yatai Kaikan. Free time follows before the walk back. Two nights at Takayama Ouan (or similar). (B,L)

The day is yours, in town or out of it. One option is Shirakawago, a protected World Heritage village set in fine country, where the thatched roofs are pitched sharply so the deep winter snow slides off. Alternatively, walk the Teramachi quarter with its temples and shrines, or make the short trip to Hida-Furukawa for its old buildings. (B)

The train runs on to Kyoto, the country's cultural heart, where the Geisha tradition is centred and the imperial kitchen developed. Some free time follows your arrival. In the late afternoon there is a walk through Gion, taking in Hanami-koji Lane and Ponto-cho, where a Geisha may pass on her way to an engagement. Four nights at Miyako Hotell Kyoto Hachijo (or similar). (B)

A day on foot and on public transport takes in the city's best. Ride out to the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, where the stems rise far overhead, then on to Tenryuji Temple. From Togetsukyo Bridge, look down on the Katsura River, then board the purple Randen Train out to Ryoanji Temple, home to the country's most celebrated rock garden. The day ends at the Golden Pavilion, or Kinkaku-ji, a gilded 14th century structure held in great affection here. (B)

Another open day, to spend as you please. Options include a train to Hiroshima and its history, Osaka for the castle there, the deer that roam freely in Nara, or Himeji Castle. Pick whichever appeals. (B)

One more day to take Kyoto at your own speed. The trip closes tonight with a kaiseki farewell dinner in the company of a Maiko, still in her apprentice Geisha years. (B,D)

The trip ends here, though the stories go home with you. Kyoto Train Station is a short walk from the hotel, and from there you continue to the airport under your own arrangements. (B)